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Vigo
1) General informationThe large and modern new town of Vigo is located in the province of Pontevedra in the bay (or ria) from which it takes its name. Around Vigo lay the districts of Alcabre, Samil and Catabo, whilst within the city there are some more familiar names like Florida.
Vigo really is vast and as you drive through it, it appears to continue endlessly along the winding coastline. The views of the city, and especially of its many small bays and beaches, are seen at their best from the motorway toll road on which most visitors will approach the city. This elevated highway runs not just through, but also above the greater part of the city and this is how most tourists and visitors to Vigo will initially see its cityscape.
Because of Vigo's size it is advisable to obtain a map before attempting to navigate within the city. Searching for the old quarter, or trying to find the large Parque de Castro (park and gardens) without a street or location plan is not a good idea (I write from experience).
Although large in scale, Vigo lends itself to being divided up into a number of tourist "hot spots" and once this has been done the city takes on a much more manageable look.
At the top of most tourist's "things to see" list is the old quarter and this occupies a compact area on a fairly steep incline that runs down to the ocean front. This area is has a double appeal because it also backs directly onto the recreational portion of the marina with Vigo's "Club Nautico" at the ocean front.
When combined, these two areas and the "las Avenidas" pedestrianised zone that divides them, become a good starting point for an exploration of Vigo. They also contain a couple of dozen bars and cafes, most lining the "Avenidas" or in the plazas of the historic district. Also just off "las Avenidas" is parking and the departure point for an open topped sightseeing bus tour journey around the city.
How long to stay? Casually wondering around the old quarter and port and then taking in some refreshment can easily fill two, three or even four hours.
Once the old town and port have been ticked off the list, another worthwhile trip is a visit to the "Parque de Castro" gardens in the center of the city. Getting to this park involves passing through much of Vigo's shopping district, but it may be advisable to drive or use public transport.
The park has some archaeological ruins and a tree lined boulevard called the "Avenida Marques de Alcedo". The old quarter and sea front lie below (to the north) of this park.
Vigo has much to endear it and we found a further "mini" historic district in another part of the town. There are also spasmodic parts of the seafront which are still comprised of the old fisherman's houses from anything up to three centuries ago.
On the outskirts of Vigo "proper" is the hamlet of Boulaz and parts of this town are still very representative of the Vigo of a days gone by. Again this part of the city is easily visited by anyone with a car. It borders the district of Alcabre, just outside of Vigo.
Another advantage of Vigo city is the accessibility of everything from international restaurants to designer boutiques. Vigo offers high class shopping, top quality hotels and it is within a half hours drive of Pontevedra and an hours drive from "Porto" in Portugal. As a base from which to explore southern Galicia and northern Portugal, Vigo is ideal.
If Vigo has a drawback, then it is its prices. Vigo is the most expensive city in Galicia when it comes to buying a drink or finding something to eat, but again this perceived expense is based on Galician, rather than international standards.
2) The Port and Marina at Vigo
The part of Vigo's port that most tourists will initially head for is undoubtedly the marina.
This marina is one of the most exclusive in Galicia and it is certainly a nice place to visit, or indeed to stop at and get some refreshment from one of the overlooking cafes. The marina's Nautical Club sits just in front of the attractive “as Avenidas” area and this is very much a part of Vigo that has been designed with tourism in mind.
The embarkation point for cruise liners is at a different point in the port to the main marina, so those wishing to see this will need to get back in the car, or take the tourist bus that departs and returns from the marina and travels on a route that takes in the cruise ship docking area.
Aside from the marina, Vigo's commercial port does have an appeal all of its own, at least to some (including me). The port is truly enormous and it seems to continue for kilometre after kilometre with massive ships, cranes the height of skyscrapers, and more containers than most people though existed the world over.
We actually found the size and spectacle of Vigo's port quite something to see as it takes on the scale of a city rather than a mere port.
For those interested in the magnitude of Vigo's ocean side developments, a short car journey to the town of Teis and the vantage point of “Ermita and the Mirrador de a Guia” (a park built on a hill) shows the true extent of the port. It also confirms why Vigo is so important to the economy of Galicia and Spain.
For those wishing to see a quaint and typically Galician “fishing village" type port, Vigo will most definitely not fit the bill, although some of the local coastal towns will.
3) The old town of VigoBased around the original fishermen's houses and located on the slopes leading down to Vigo's earliest port, the city's old quarter is extremely underrated and actually a small treasure. Amazingly most guides do not even mention Vigo's old district, but it is there and it is definitely worth seeing.
This part of the town existed long before Vigo attained its present population and city status, but like the original town walls, part of the district was demolished to make way for newer developments.
Despite "new" Vigo's advance, the old quarter (running down to what is now the marina) still retains many of its original buildings with the "Iglesia Concatedral de Santa Maria" (church) very much at its center.
Translated as the "Collegiate church of Saint Maria", this is the oldest of the city's churches and what remains of the original town radiates away from it on streets like the "Rua Real" and the "Triunfo". Some of these streets are connected by the narrowest of alleys and others have incredibly steep flights of steps leading away from them and down to the port area. Some of these stairs are so steep and narrow that few would consider using them today.
A hundred years earlier this old quarter would have been much larger, but even now many of the buildings that formed the nucleus of the district are still standing. So too are four of the original squares, numbering the "plaza de Pedra", immediately below St. Maria's church, the "plaza Almeida", just above the church, along with the "plaza Princesa" and the largest of the four, the "plaza Constitucion".
All of these squares are atmospheric and overlooked by the original buildings of the area and the latter two have the addition of tables and chairs from the café culture that now thrives in this area.
Walking around the old town is definitely an experience and any visitor will be surprised that such a place still exists in the vast metropolis that is Vigo. But the old quarter is far from dead and in the area around the Pedra square there is a market along with ladies selling the traditional oysters of the locality. These oysters are presented on boxes and benches and the shells cracked open when you make your order.
The levels of renovation in Vigo's old town do vary and whilst most of this district is in excellent condition, there are some small areas that are presently (July 2007) being refurbished. These areas are however small and do not detract from the character of the neighbourhood.
In days gone by a small part of the old town, in the vicinity of the Pedra square, was a meeting point for smugglers and as you walk down these narrow lanes it is easy to see why. Very few streets are straight and all seem to have projections or hidden alleys at every bend. It would have been easy for smugglers to evade those trying to enforce the law, especially outside daylight hours.
During the day these winding streets can offer much appreciated shade from the sun, but at night they must take on a totally different and much more eerie feel. The smugglers are definitely gone, but their shadows still remain.
The scale of the buildings in the old town should not be underestimated, nor should the variety of building in this historic district. Although some of the original fishing houses still comprise this area, this was the first real settlement of Vigo and there are a significant number of much larger and grander structures to see.
The four plazas in particular are overlooked by some large stone buildings of four and five storeys in height and some of these are of classic Galician design with arched walkways at ground level and balconies on the preceding floors. The more recent building too have adopted similar aesthetics ensuring that this special area loses nothing of its old world charm.
Probably the most important street in old Vigo is, or at least once was, "Rua Real". Running from the church of Maria to the site of the first port, this is the street on which most of the remaining fishermen's houses can now be found. The oldest of these properties date back to the sixteen hundreds while the more recent examples were constructed in the nineteenth century. It is also from the Rua Real that a number of incredibly steep flights of stone stairs descend down and approach the port.
It would be wrong to overstate the size of Vigo's old town, but despite is small stature it is well worth visiting.
Wondering around the narrow streets and then seeing one of them open up onto an unexpected plaza is something that few cities on Vigo's scale can still offer. This town also has genuine atmosphere and with its cafes and the marina never more than a few strides away it is not to be missed.
Cíes Islands
WEB
Cíes is an archipelago made up of three islands - Monte Agudo Island (or North Island), O Faro Island and San Martiño Island (or South Island). The first two are joined by a long sand bank called Rodas beach, in the middle of which there is a lagoon.
The only way to get to the islands is by the passenger boat service (which leaves from Vigo, Cangas and Baiona) in the summer months and at Easter, weather permitting. The southern island of San Martiño is the only island that has no regular boat service (it may only be reached by private boats). For further information on boat service and timetables call the Estación Marítima (986 225 272) in Vigo. For other general information about the islands call the National Atlantic Islands Park Office (986 858 593).
The Islas Cíes, or Islands of the Gods as they were known in Roman times, are a natural paradise for the birds that nest along the cliffs and the wide variety of species that live there. However, the islands are paradisiacal too for the human visitor who wishes to enjoy the beautiful natural surroundings, the beaches, and the peace and quiet.
Cíes is an archipelago made up of three islands - Monte Agudo Island (or North Island), O Faro Island and San Martiño Island (or South Island). The first two are joined by a long sand bank called Rodas beach, in the middle of which there is a lagoon.
The only way to get to the islands is by the passenger boat service (which leaves from Vigo, Cangas and Baiona) in the summer months and at Easter, weather permitting. The southern island of San Martiño is the only island that has no regular boat service (it may only be reached by private boats). For further information on boat service and timetables call the Estación Marítima (986 225 272) in Vigo. For other general information about the islands call the National Atlantic Islands Park Office (986 858 593).
Samil Beach
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See photos
Samil beach is the largest beach in Vigo, measuring about 1,115m in length and 15m in width. It has fine, white sand and is located in the parish of Navia, very near the city.
The beach and area around it has a great range of services and facilities for holidaymakers. These include:
3 pools - A slide - Basketball courts- A roller-skating rink - Red Cross Point
Lifeguard service -Showers and footbaths - Disabled sea bathing assistance
Loudspeakers -Children’s games - Car park - Green spaces - Picnic areas
Several cafes - Restaurants...
Lifeguard service -Showers and footbaths - Disabled sea bathing assistance
Loudspeakers -Children’s games - Car park - Green spaces - Picnic areas
Several cafes - Restaurants...
In summer lots of outdoor activities and competitions are organized.
Beside the beach on Avenida de Samil you can visit the Verbum museum. Also known as the Casa das Palabras (the House of Words), this interactive museum is dedicated to the science and study of language and communication.
There is also a Sports Complex at Samil with 12 tennis courts, 3 paddle tennis courts and a football pitch. A number of bars and discos have also opened around the beach area, including a bowling alley.
There is a good city bus service (Vitrasa) to get to Samil: take the L10, C15A, C15B or C15C all year round and in summer the C3. There are also night buses CN1 and CN2.
Santa Tecla:
Valença do Minho (Portugal)
Standing on the border with Spain and overlooking the River Minho, Valença is surrounded by walls and displays all the characteristic features of a town that was fortified in the seventeenth century in the style of the French military architect, Vauban. Its first name was "Contrasta", which referred to a village standing opposite another one and was clearly a reference to its position directly across the River Minho from the Galician town of Tui. Today, it is a city with a flourishing trade, in which some of the most popularly sought after items are the pieces produced by the local craftsmen.
Pontevedra
Pontevedra is situated in the rias baixas (or lower bays) of Galicia and is the region’s most southern sea facing province. The name Pontevedra, refers to both a province and its self titled capitol city. Pontevedra’s largest conurbation is in fact the city of Vigo in a lower bay, south of Pontevedra city.
The provincial capitol of Pontevedra is located in its own ria (bay) and is bisected by the "rio" (river) "Lerez". The parts of this city that a tourist would want to visit are nearly all on the south side of the river where the original old town is situated.
From a tourist perspective Pontevedra is becoming increasingly popular with domestic and foreign visitors to Galicia. The city is famous, historic and has a significant number attractions worth seeing. So what does Pontevedra have to offer?
Whilst not on the same scale as A Coruna or Santiago de Compostela, Pontevedra has its fair share of historic buildings, churches and monuments, along with plenty of attractive plazas and a large shopping district. Most of the town is on the flat, although the older district requires you to walk up and down a slight incline. Bars and cafes are plentiful and a series of "prazas", or small squares, including the Teuco and Ferreria, punctuate the interlinked streets. Much of this area is also pedestrianised making travel on foot the most convenient and straight forward option.
Pontevedra’s Alameda.- The alameda, or town square of Pontevedra city, is actually located at the southern edge of the main area of tourist interest and sight seeing attractions. The square is long and narrow and split lengthwise into a paved area lined with buildings on one side and a slightly elevated tree shaded corridor on the other.
Pontevedra old town.- As you leave Pontevedra’s alameda you cross a busy junction with the city’s old town directly in front of you and the ruin of "San Domingos" church to your right. Straight ahead however is the "Pazo do Concello", town hall and council offices, which has a granite and white rendered frontal facade.
The "Pazo do Concello" has a large double level, four columned entrance with symmetrically balanced wings either side and needs no introduction as Pontevedra’s town hall. It is far smaller than some of the other buildings lining the main square, but aesthetically more pleasing and some how less dour than the gargantuan structures you pass by in order to reach it. Beyond the "Pazo do Concello" the older district of Pontevedra dips down and you can wind your way along one of a couple of alternate routes. Just past the town hall, the recently restored long and narrow city theatre, "Teatro Principal" sits to the right. This theatre is built on the original site of St. Bartolomeu’s church which was destroyed in 1842. Unfortunately, I believe the theatre is now a casino.
On the lower side of the theatre is a narrow lane called the "rua Tetuan" and on this alley there is the "Nazarene chapel" also called the chapel of the "immured women". This chapel originates from the middle ages and the reason behind its name lies in the fact that its inhabitant nuns only left the chapel once – after they died. This building is small and demure and you can easily miss it. It does however have a coat of arms on its narrow facade. In addition to the theatre and ancient chapel, this area of Pontevedra’s old quarter has several other buildings dating back many years including a fifteenth century house just across from the "Teatro Principal". It is also from this point that you can easily reach the first of Pontevedra’s famous squares, the Praza do Teucro, which you can find out about by clicking on this link, or selecting the Teucro button in the menu bar to the right.
Continuing a downward path and heading roughly towards the center of the old district, you reach a junction where five different lanes meet. Quite aptly this spot is known as the "Praza de Cinco Ruas" (square of five roads) and has at its center a highly detailed "cruceiro" (stone cross) which dates back to 1773. Galicia is littered with these crosses and they can be found in plazas, at cross roads and in places of commemoration, but this one is a particularly fine example. The junction of the five roads is also the site of a house formerly owned by a famous Galician writer called quot;Valle Inclan quot;.
Just a minute or two from the "Praza de Cinco Ruas" are a couple more sight seeing stops, although neither impressed us. The first is the "Casa do Baron de Casa Goda" which is now a parador (state run hotel). This building was once a large house (possibly two) and is quite attractive, but not worth going out of your way to see. Its dual merits lie in its neoclassical facade, which may date back as far as the sixteenth century, and the fact that it was once owned by the Count of "Maceda".
The second stop in this vicinity is the "Chapel of the Appearances", where sister "Lucia" lived. Unfortunately we were unable to determine her significance and unless you know and appreciate the religious importance of this chapel it is certainly not worth a visit.
The Prazo do Teucro.- This is an old and highly symbolic square in Pontevedra’s old quarter. It combines history, myth, provincial architecture and heraldic wealth in a single rectangular courtyard and was constructed during the eighteenth century.
The square is surrounded by many fine manor houses and is regarded as the most stately plaza in Pontevedra. Among the properties lining the "Teucro" square are those originally owned by some of the city’s leading families including the "Montenegro’s" and the "Marquis de Aranda". Most of the houses date back to the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries and are still in their original form representing what wealth and aristocracy stood for during that period. Pontevedra’s history and connection with myth are also linked to this original part of the old town which legend claims was foundered by the Greek archer, and brother of Ajax, "Teucrus". Folk law has it that "Teucrus" traveled west after the "Trojan" wars and subsequently discovered Pontevedra.
In truth Pontevedra’s origins are more likely linked to a stop on an early Roman road and the name Pontevedra, meaning "old or ancient bridge", can be found in biblical texts dating back as far as the twelfth century.
Although popular myth may make some unrealistic claims about the "Prazo do Teucro" and its distant origins, its heraldic legacy is not in doubt. Pontevedra as a whole boasts over 200 coats of arms emblazoned into its walls and buildings and the "Prazo do Teucro" is the single most prolific demonstration of the city’s heraldry. Almost every building surrounding this small square has a coat of arms cut into, or projecting out from, its facade. The most notable of these detailed works of masonry is to be found on the "Gago and Montenegro" house on the northern side of the Square.
This coat of arms is in the Galician baroque style and dates back to around the seventeenth century. It is both large and three dimensionally detailed and without question the most impressive example we have seen in Galicia.
The square also has a further use when, during the fiestas, it plays host to night time concerts with a temporary stage erected in its eastern face. The square also slopes downwards, west to east, making it a natural auditorium for such events.
Capela da Virxe Peregrina (chapel of the pilgrims).- The "Capela da Virxe Peregrina" is a highly unusual building situated in the "Praza de Peregrina" (square of the pilgrim) which is part of the larger Ferreria square.
This chapel is unique and distinctive and attracts the attention of everyone who sees it. It was built in Pontevedra in 1778 and is positioned on the main pilgrim's route that leads to Santiago de Compostela from Galicia’s neighbour Portugal.
The chapel was built under the guidance of "Antonio de Souto" and "Bernado Jose de Mier" and is a fusion of Baroque detailing with some neo classical design elements. What makes the structure unique and eye catching is not however its intricate detailing (although there is plenty of that), but its shape and form in plan. The "Capela da Virxe Peregrina" has a ground plan in the shape of the "viera" (scallop shell), the traditional and long lasting symbol of pilgrims and the pilgrim’s route to Santiago de Compostela. It also has the shape of a cross embedded within the "viera" profile.
From the outside the chapel looks "stocky" but it is also strangely narrow and appears to be almost circular. It has a symmetrical appearance with several small windows climbing vertically up its facade and two small towers at it head. The portico is elaborate and has an equally decorative drinking fountain in front of it with a stair either side that takes visitors up to the entrance level, about four feet above the main square.
Inside the Pilgrims chapel there is a neo classical alter that dates from 1789 and was designed by "Melchor de Prado". Its main feature is an image of Pontevedra’s patron saint, the virgin pilgrim. The inside of the chapel is extremely small and none but pilgrims entered it when we were there.
The pilgrims chapel achieved national monument status in Spain in 1982 and the pilgrims who pass it arrive at Pontevedra from the south.
As a fixture on the Portuguese "Camino", a pilgrim traveling this route will only be deemed to succeed if he or she make a stop at this church.
Combarro
Combarro constitutes nowadays an incomparable example of popular Galician architecture and is considered to be one of the villages better preserved of Galicia, singular urban grouping, so singular that was declared in the Joint 1972 of artistic and picturesque interest due to hisexceptional captivation. It is as if you were entering a magic, genuine village of the popular Galician architecture. Seaworthy village in which it seems that the years have not happened, one of the most beautiful fishing cores of the Galician coast. His old hull was constructed adapting like life of his settlers: sailors and agriculturalists. The traveler can meditate since hismore than 30 barns they line up on the granitic base that gives form to the coast and come up to the shore of the sea. It is in the wall that surrounds the historical hull where these granaries of maize embed themselves, in Combarro you prop given his singular mixing of agricultural and seaworthy activity they are in use as dry of kinds of anchovy, sardines and others fished typical of her Laugh, of there the peculiarity of these barns constructed at the edge of the sea, unlike the typical Galician barns constructed to guard the crops of the farmers. Besides the barns, in Combarro we find numerous "cruceiros" placed in squares and crossroads of ways due to the Galician belief of protection of these architectural elements.
Sanxenxo
Sanxenxo's municipality is provided with a few landscape resources of incalculable value. Test of it is the beauty of all his coast (36 km) with spectacular marine landscapes that confirm in turn with leafy valleys and mounts of pines, carballos, chestnut-trees and eucalyptuses that remember the most rural Galicia. This contrast of the marine littoral and his interior field they are some of his atrativos for the tourism of nature. His interior is characterized by a series of valleys of flat funds on those who emerge isolated hills. In the whole extension of the municipality there exist numerous creeks and creeks that give place to fertile lands with predominance of the culture of the grapevine and agricultural products.
La Toja
La Toja ("Toxa" in Gallego) is a little island in the "rias baias" (lower bays) connected to the Galician mainland by a carriageway elevated above the sea. Although small and only a couple of hundred metres from shore, it is a well known and popular destination for Galician holiday makers.
To reach this island from Noia or Muros takes about two and a half hours by car and takes you south down the coast towards Portugal.
A significant part of la Toja is protected from urban development and this has resulted in a concentration of hotels, apartments and houses around one small area of the island.
La Toja has a reputation for being exclusive an attracting wealthy residents and holiday makers and, unlike other parts of Galicia, you notice a high private security presence there.
The "shell" church.- On reaching la Toja the attractions are some what limited and most tourists seem to migrate to a small park, surrounded by hotels, which contains an unusual church. The feature that sets this church aside from any other you are likely to find becomes evident as you approach it and notice the unusual texture of the facade. The church is in fact covered from ground to eaves in local sea shells.(Left, The shell encrusted church at la Toja island)Unfortunately the initial intrigue, as to why this was done, is soon replaced (in me at least) by the disappointment of realizing that every single shell within human reach is covered in graffiti. The graffiti is not offensive, simply names, hearts and dates, but it certainly takes the edge off the overall spectacle.
The church included, la Toja can be explored in a couple of hours and, as such, we did not feel it warranted the longish journey that we took to reach it. That said, other people we have spoken to do however disagree and it was certainly very busy when we were there.
La Toja has at least one beach and overlooks a large clam bed between itself and the mainland. When we visited the island in July 2002 this clam bed, which is submerged under water, was being harvested by lots of elderly ladies, waist deep in the sea.
The church included, la Toja can be explored in a couple of hours and, as such, we did not feel it warranted the longish journey that we took to reach it. That said, other people we have spoken to do however disagree and it was certainly very busy when we were there.
La Toja has at least one beach and overlooks a large clam bed between itself and the mainland. When we visited the island in July 2002 this clam bed, which is submerged under water, was being harvested by lots of elderly ladies, waist deep in the sea.
Santiago de Compostela
Town of the Apostle
Santiago de Compostela is the final destination of the legendary medieval way of pilgrimship Camino de Santiago (Way of Saint James), now considered by Unesco a World Heritage Site. Until today it attracts visitors from all over the world thanks to its fantastic monuments. The town is named after the Apostle Saint James ("Santiago"), who is buried here.
Santiago is certainly one of Spain's most monumental towns, with a particular architectonical style all of its own. But it is as well a town plenty of life, with one of the most famous Universities and a large number of students who guarantee youthful ambience inbetween the historical walls. Also the region's cuisine is of great reputation, and it is said that nowhere you can eat better sea-food than in Galicia.
So this is a place with a really varied offer, and one of the great cultural centers of the continent.
Santiago de Compostela: Sightseeing
La Plaza del Obradoiro
The name of this square is said to come from "Obra de Oro" (work of gold), and be that true or not it is really shining. It forms the center of a town that seems to be a museum.
Construction of the Cathedral started in 1075, when the town arrived to the climax of its importance. The chapel, Capilla del Salvador, is still conserved of this oldest epoch.
The second phase, after the wedding of Doña Urraca and Raimundo of Bourgogne, shows influences of french Romanesque style, as well as a style that is all Santiago's own, the so-called Románico Compostelano. The Obradoiro Facade (to which lateron were added Barroque elements) and the towers Torre de las Campanas and Torre de la Carraca were made at this time.
Through the Obradoiro Door you enter the so-called Old Cathedral, a Romanesque crypta with the first vaults of groined arches that were ever built in Spain.
The sculptures of the Portico de la Gloria, another entrance door, are considered some of the most important works of medieval art.
Gelmirez Palace , face to face to the cathedral, is a brilliant example of Romanesque civil architecture. Of particular interest are its groined arches and sculpture works.
The Hospital Real was built in 1492 to shelter pilgrims. Today this building, in Plateresque and Renaissance styles, serves as Parador de Turismo.
Rajoy Palace is a huge and elegant neoclassical building of 18th century, located opposite to the cathedral.
Colegio de San Jerónimo and Colegio de Fonseca are both 15th century monasteries, founded by Alfonso III de Fonseca. In the latter there is the University library, and it conserves the famous 11th century manuscript Libro de Hojas.
Plaza de las Platerias
This square is named after the many shops of silver articles (Platerias) which are to be found still today under its arcades. From here you can see the cathedral's gothic portal and the only facade which is conserved in the original Romanesque style, with fantastic sculpture works, like the figure of King David.
Worth seeing are as well the Fuente de los Caballos, a 19th century fountain in the center of the square, Casa del Cabildo, of 18th century, and Casa de los Canónigos (also called Conga), another 18th century palace that separates Plaza de las Platerias from Plaza de la Quintana.
Plaza de la Quintana
From this square you see the Portico Real, Royal Door, of the cathedral, the towers Berenguela and Torre del Reloj, as well as the Puerta del Perdon. This door is opened only in a Holy Year, during the Apostle Festival.
The Monastery of San Pelayo de Antealtares , with its austere facade of granite, is one of the oldest buildings in Santiago. It was founded in 11th century by Alphonse II in order to entomb the mortal remains of the Apostle James there.
The baroque Casa de la Parra is another attraction at this square.
Plaza de la Azabacheria
To this square opened originally the legendary Puerta del Paradiso (door of the paradise), through which the pilgrims entered the cathedral. It was replaced by a neoclassical work of Ventura Rodriguez, which is to be seen today.
The monumental Monastery of San Martin Pinario, of 16th century, is one of the most impressive examples of Barroco Compostelana. It was built over a Romanesque church, which has been an important medieval religious center.
Legend tells us that the Convento de San Francisco was founded by Saint Franciscus of Assisi, after a revelation on his pilgrimship to Santiago, 1213 to 1215. God told him he should buy land from the monks of Saint Martin's Monastery for the symbolic price of a basket of fish, and then build there a monastery of the money some Cotolay would find in a fountain. Everything happened as predicted.
Little is left of the original gothic building. The monastery as we see it today was built in 17th and 18th century.
Around the University
The streets in the University district offer possibilities to have walks in truly poetic surroundings. In Rua del Villar there are some beautiful palaces, as Casa del Dean , in gothic style, Monroy Palace in Renaissance style, and Palacio de los Marqueses de Bendana, with neoclassical facade and baroque portal.
In Rua Nueva, (which means "New Street", but this one has that name since 12th century) you will find the 12th century Romanesque church Santa María Salomé. Its baroque tower was added lateron.
Close to it you may visit some interesting palaces: Palacio de Ramirans, Palacio de los Condes de Gimonde, Casa de las Pomas, and Palacio de Mondragón.
Santiago: History and Legends
The name Santiago goes back to the Apostle James (Saint James = Santiago) who went to this most north-western part of Spain, called by the Romans "Finis Terrae", "end of the world", to preach and convert people to Christianity.
After returning to Palestine in 44 a.C., he was taken prisoner by Herodes Agrippa and tortured to death. The king forbid to bury him, but in the night Jacob's disciples stole the body and brought him, in a sarcophagus of marble, on board of a small boat. The current of the sea drove the boat to the Spanish coast, into the port of the Roman province's capital, Iria Flavia. Here the Apostle was buried at a secret place in a wood.
Centuries later, in 813, the hermit Pelayo listened music in that wood and saw a shining. For this shining the place was called, in Latin, "Campus Stellae", field of the star, name that was lateron turned into Compostela.
Bishop Teodomiro, who received notice of that event, instituted an investigation, and so the tomb of the Apostle was discovered. King Alphonse II declared Saint James the patron of his empire and had built a chapel at that place. It is reported that from then on Saint James did several miracles, even that he fought side to side with King Ramiro I in the decisive battle against the Moors.
More and more pilgrims followed the way of Santiago, "Camino de Santiago", and the original chapel soon became the cathedral of the new settlement, Santiago de Compostela..
In 12th and 13th century the town had its greatest importance, and Pope Alexander III declared it a Holy Town, like Rome and Jerusalem. Pope Calixto II declared that the pilgrims who went to Santiago in a Holy Year should be free of all their sins. El Año Santo (Holy Year) is celebrated each time when the Apostol's day (July, 25) is a Sunday.
Night life in Santiago
The old town
In Rua del Franco and its side-streets there are numerous restaurants, bars and traditional taverns, and it is more than probable that you will want to try the delicious "Pulpo á la Gallega" and Ribeiro wine offered there. You will find lots of students here - Santiago is a very important University town - and "Tunas", traditional groups of students in medieval dresses, go from local to local singing and making fun.
El Ensanche
Around Plaza Roja in particular there are many fashionable locals, pubs, discotheques as well as cafés in the style of the 1920s.
Gastronomy
To speak about the cuisine of Santiago is not possible without taking into consideration the cuisine of the entire region of Galicia, which has an outstanding reputation in all Spain. Most typical is fish, which exists here in extraordinary quality.
The Saint Jacob's Shell, Viera, is not only the symbol of the town, but also a first rate speciality. The same has to be said about Pulpo á la Gallega, cuttlefish prepared with paprika. Another well-known dish is Empanada Gallega, a pie of fish, meat or vegetables.
Among sweets Tarta Compostelana, a tart of almonds, is most famous.
The wines of the region have a great reputation too, specially Ribeiro, young and fresh, but don't leave out the chance to try as well Fefiñanes, Betanzos, Rosal, Valdeorras, Ulla and Amandi.
VERY IMPORTANT TO SEE:
If you are in Santiago at the end of July, don't miss the Festival of the Apostle. On July, 24th takes place the "Fuego del Apostol", great fire-works in front of the Obradoiro-door of the cathedral. The next day, during mass, a huge incense font that is fixed to the ceiling of the cathedral with a rope is swung through all the nave.
Santiago de Compostela is the final destination of the legendary medieval way of pilgrimship Camino de Santiago (Way of Saint James), now considered by Unesco a World Heritage Site. Until today it attracts visitors from all over the world thanks to its fantastic monuments. The town is named after the Apostle Saint James ("Santiago"), who is buried here.
Santiago is certainly one of Spain's most monumental towns, with a particular architectonical style all of its own. But it is as well a town plenty of life, with one of the most famous Universities and a large number of students who guarantee youthful ambience inbetween the historical walls. Also the region's cuisine is of great reputation, and it is said that nowhere you can eat better sea-food than in Galicia.
So this is a place with a really varied offer, and one of the great cultural centers of the continent.
Santiago de Compostela: Sightseeing
La Plaza del Obradoiro
The name of this square is said to come from "Obra de Oro" (work of gold), and be that true or not it is really shining. It forms the center of a town that seems to be a museum.
Construction of the Cathedral started in 1075, when the town arrived to the climax of its importance. The chapel, Capilla del Salvador, is still conserved of this oldest epoch.
The second phase, after the wedding of Doña Urraca and Raimundo of Bourgogne, shows influences of french Romanesque style, as well as a style that is all Santiago's own, the so-called Románico Compostelano. The Obradoiro Facade (to which lateron were added Barroque elements) and the towers Torre de las Campanas and Torre de la Carraca were made at this time.
Through the Obradoiro Door you enter the so-called Old Cathedral, a Romanesque crypta with the first vaults of groined arches that were ever built in Spain.
The sculptures of the Portico de la Gloria, another entrance door, are considered some of the most important works of medieval art.
Gelmirez Palace , face to face to the cathedral, is a brilliant example of Romanesque civil architecture. Of particular interest are its groined arches and sculpture works.
The Hospital Real was built in 1492 to shelter pilgrims. Today this building, in Plateresque and Renaissance styles, serves as Parador de Turismo.
Rajoy Palace is a huge and elegant neoclassical building of 18th century, located opposite to the cathedral.
Colegio de San Jerónimo and Colegio de Fonseca are both 15th century monasteries, founded by Alfonso III de Fonseca. In the latter there is the University library, and it conserves the famous 11th century manuscript Libro de Hojas.
Plaza de las Platerias
This square is named after the many shops of silver articles (Platerias) which are to be found still today under its arcades. From here you can see the cathedral's gothic portal and the only facade which is conserved in the original Romanesque style, with fantastic sculpture works, like the figure of King David.
Worth seeing are as well the Fuente de los Caballos, a 19th century fountain in the center of the square, Casa del Cabildo, of 18th century, and Casa de los Canónigos (also called Conga), another 18th century palace that separates Plaza de las Platerias from Plaza de la Quintana.
Plaza de la Quintana
From this square you see the Portico Real, Royal Door, of the cathedral, the towers Berenguela and Torre del Reloj, as well as the Puerta del Perdon. This door is opened only in a Holy Year, during the Apostle Festival.
The Monastery of San Pelayo de Antealtares , with its austere facade of granite, is one of the oldest buildings in Santiago. It was founded in 11th century by Alphonse II in order to entomb the mortal remains of the Apostle James there.
The baroque Casa de la Parra is another attraction at this square.
Plaza de la Azabacheria
To this square opened originally the legendary Puerta del Paradiso (door of the paradise), through which the pilgrims entered the cathedral. It was replaced by a neoclassical work of Ventura Rodriguez, which is to be seen today.
The monumental Monastery of San Martin Pinario, of 16th century, is one of the most impressive examples of Barroco Compostelana. It was built over a Romanesque church, which has been an important medieval religious center.
Legend tells us that the Convento de San Francisco was founded by Saint Franciscus of Assisi, after a revelation on his pilgrimship to Santiago, 1213 to 1215. God told him he should buy land from the monks of Saint Martin's Monastery for the symbolic price of a basket of fish, and then build there a monastery of the money some Cotolay would find in a fountain. Everything happened as predicted.
Little is left of the original gothic building. The monastery as we see it today was built in 17th and 18th century.
Around the University
The streets in the University district offer possibilities to have walks in truly poetic surroundings. In Rua del Villar there are some beautiful palaces, as Casa del Dean , in gothic style, Monroy Palace in Renaissance style, and Palacio de los Marqueses de Bendana, with neoclassical facade and baroque portal.
In Rua Nueva, (which means "New Street", but this one has that name since 12th century) you will find the 12th century Romanesque church Santa María Salomé. Its baroque tower was added lateron.
Close to it you may visit some interesting palaces: Palacio de Ramirans, Palacio de los Condes de Gimonde, Casa de las Pomas, and Palacio de Mondragón.
Santiago: History and Legends
The name Santiago goes back to the Apostle James (Saint James = Santiago) who went to this most north-western part of Spain, called by the Romans "Finis Terrae", "end of the world", to preach and convert people to Christianity.
After returning to Palestine in 44 a.C., he was taken prisoner by Herodes Agrippa and tortured to death. The king forbid to bury him, but in the night Jacob's disciples stole the body and brought him, in a sarcophagus of marble, on board of a small boat. The current of the sea drove the boat to the Spanish coast, into the port of the Roman province's capital, Iria Flavia. Here the Apostle was buried at a secret place in a wood.
Centuries later, in 813, the hermit Pelayo listened music in that wood and saw a shining. For this shining the place was called, in Latin, "Campus Stellae", field of the star, name that was lateron turned into Compostela.
Bishop Teodomiro, who received notice of that event, instituted an investigation, and so the tomb of the Apostle was discovered. King Alphonse II declared Saint James the patron of his empire and had built a chapel at that place. It is reported that from then on Saint James did several miracles, even that he fought side to side with King Ramiro I in the decisive battle against the Moors.
More and more pilgrims followed the way of Santiago, "Camino de Santiago", and the original chapel soon became the cathedral of the new settlement, Santiago de Compostela..
In 12th and 13th century the town had its greatest importance, and Pope Alexander III declared it a Holy Town, like Rome and Jerusalem. Pope Calixto II declared that the pilgrims who went to Santiago in a Holy Year should be free of all their sins. El Año Santo (Holy Year) is celebrated each time when the Apostol's day (July, 25) is a Sunday.
Night life in Santiago
The old town
In Rua del Franco and its side-streets there are numerous restaurants, bars and traditional taverns, and it is more than probable that you will want to try the delicious "Pulpo á la Gallega" and Ribeiro wine offered there. You will find lots of students here - Santiago is a very important University town - and "Tunas", traditional groups of students in medieval dresses, go from local to local singing and making fun.
El Ensanche
Around Plaza Roja in particular there are many fashionable locals, pubs, discotheques as well as cafés in the style of the 1920s.
Gastronomy
To speak about the cuisine of Santiago is not possible without taking into consideration the cuisine of the entire region of Galicia, which has an outstanding reputation in all Spain. Most typical is fish, which exists here in extraordinary quality.
The Saint Jacob's Shell, Viera, is not only the symbol of the town, but also a first rate speciality. The same has to be said about Pulpo á la Gallega, cuttlefish prepared with paprika. Another well-known dish is Empanada Gallega, a pie of fish, meat or vegetables.
Among sweets Tarta Compostelana, a tart of almonds, is most famous.
The wines of the region have a great reputation too, specially Ribeiro, young and fresh, but don't leave out the chance to try as well Fefiñanes, Betanzos, Rosal, Valdeorras, Ulla and Amandi.
VERY IMPORTANT TO SEE:
If you are in Santiago at the end of July, don't miss the Festival of the Apostle. On July, 24th takes place the "Fuego del Apostol", great fire-works in front of the Obradoiro-door of the cathedral. The next day, during mass, a huge incense font that is fixed to the ceiling of the cathedral with a rope is swung through all the nave.
A Coruña
See photos A Coruña, a city over quarter million population, is the most important location in North-Western Spain, seat of the Local Office of the Government in Galicia, of The High Court of Galicia as well as seat and capital of the Record Office of the Ancient Kingdom of Galicia.
Populated, cosmopolitan and wide-open to the sea, are three of the characteristics that define it. Its strong European character comes from long ago; from A Coruña harbour departed Charles the first of Spain to be crowned Emperor of Germany, and to La Coruña harbour returned the "Invincible Army" after its defeat, settling the beginning of the end of the Hispanic Empire and the starting point of British Hegemony.
"A Coruña, the city where nobody is a stranger", is the motto which goes with all its citizens day by day.
Leader regarding to substructures, its housing state radically changed since the last ten years: The Longest Promenade in Europe, which shelters, along its line, four blue-flagged beaches within the heart of the city, The "Casa del Hombre", The Aquarium Finisterrae, The National Opera Hall, The Coliseum, are referents of the physiognomy of a young city, leading role which shares with old buildings, witnesses of its history, starting, obviously, from the Hercules Tower the only roman lighthouse running in the world, symbol of the city and its University, whose motto "Hac Luce", refers to such remarkable monument.
Its Old City lodges bars and taverns, full of charming, which transport the walker back in the Middle Ages. English men named it "The City of Glass", because of its galleries, past-century architecture which shapes La Marina.
Beach, sea, history, modernity and vanguards meet at our city, in order to turn it into a reference point for the whole nation.
So what does A Coruna have to offer the tourist?
Well there is a monumental district and it contains some old churches and other buildings of interest, but few that compete with the baroque, gothic and neo-classical examples you will find in the provinces more (internationally) famous city of Santiago de Compostela.
Coruna city also has some grand squares and one, the "Maria Pita" square, is especially impressive and is overlooked by the palatial looking council offices called the municipal palace. This building is certainly worthy of the description "monumental".
An attractive new promenade runs the length of the cities sea facing perimeter and you can walk along it as you venture in and out of the city itself. A tram system also runs up and down a significant part of the sea front and, although intended as a mode of transport, it is also ideal for sightseeing and enjoying a breeze on a hot day.
A Coruna’s harbour is large and takes a multitude of vessels from commercial transporters and fishing boats,
to cruise liners and yachts and has non stop shipping traffic. The harbour facing buildings also add to A Coruna’s appeal with their galeria style facades reaching several storeys in height and the combination of glass, white frames and structural components giving rise to the city’s nick name of "crystal or glass city". Left, a view showing one end of the city's large harbour with some of the galeria featuring buildings in the background.Walking around the city also creates a different impression to that experienced in Pontevedra or Ourense. In many of Galica’s towns and cities, leaving the old district frequently confronts you with a mixture of decrepit old and ugly new buildings, in A Coruna this is not the case. The whole of A Coruna seems clean and tidy and as you leave the oldest district and enter some of the newer areas the architectural theme of galerias (glass enclosed balconies) really takes hold of the city and gives it a unique and distinctive feel.
A Coruna - a city of contrasts
The combination of old and new continues with two of A Coruna’s biggest sight seeing draws. On the one hand the city has the worlds oldest operational lighthouse, "la Torre de Hercules", which dates back to Roman times, but equally this is contrasted with the futuristic "Domus" building, both of which are sited overlooking the ocean. If this is not enough an old fortress, the "Castillo de San Anton" also projects out into A Coruna’s harbour at the end of a small stone pier. An obvious indication of A Coruna’s past defences against its many attackers and invaders.
Exploring A Coruna city is no mean feat and each of the attractions mentioned above require some walking, or better still a trip on the tram, to see. The great thing about this city is the fact that travelling this way provides you with plenty to look at. If you are in the old quarter there is a military museum, the Galician archive or the tomb of British (Scottish really) hero Sir John Moore. If you are out and about in the newer parts of town there is plenty of shopping, but also a lively atmosphere, attractive buildings and the sea is never far from view.
Finding a single highlight for A Coruna is difficult, it is a city with lots to commend it, but the real appeal is the city as a whole and you can easily spend a full day exploring without seeing everything it has to offer. If you want to be clinical in your exploration there are, "according to the city council", three different tourist routes you can take. The first focuses on the old district, the second is themed around food and gastronomy and the final one is known as the "Picasso" route, after the artist who lived in A Coruna for a number of years. Personally we would recommend (as ever) that the best way to see this city is to follow a route that takes in all the main tourist haunts and then generally wonder – but time may be against you.
Getting information, maps and English language help is a perennial problem in Galicia, but excellent tourist information centres with multi-lingual staff (including German and French speakers) can be found throughout A Coruna and those that we spoke to seemed very knowledgeable and helpful.
One final thing that we noticed in the city of Coruna was the constant building and maintenance work that was taking place everywhere (you will see cranes in some of the photos). Most of this work appeared to be focussed on the refurbishment of the late 19th and early 20th century modernist buildings and, unlike many other Galician cities, there were few ruinous buildings to spoil the views.
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