Pontevedra



Pontevedra is situated in the rias baixas (or lower bays) of Galicia and is the region’s most southern sea facing province. The name Pontevedra, refers to both a province and its self titled capitol city. Pontevedra’s largest conurbation is in fact the city of Vigo in a lower bay, south of Pontevedra city.

The provincial capitol of Pontevedra is located in its own ria (bay) and is bisected by the "rio" (river) "Lerez". The parts of this city that a tourist would want to visit are nearly all on the south side of the river where the original old town is situated.

From a tourist perspective Pontevedra is becoming increasingly popular with domestic and foreign visitors to Galicia. The city is famous, historic and has a significant number attractions worth seeing. So what does Pontevedra have to offer?

Whilst not on the same scale as A Coruna or Santiago de Compostela, Pontevedra has its fair share of historic buildings, churches and monuments, along with plenty of attractive plazas and a large shopping district. Most of the town is on the flat, although the older district requires you to walk up and down a slight incline. Bars and cafes are plentiful and a series of "prazas", or small squares, including the Teuco and Ferreria, punctuate the interlinked streets. Much of this area is also pedestrianised making travel on foot the most convenient and straight forward option.
Pontevedra’s Alameda.- The alameda, or town square of Pontevedra city, is actually located at the southern edge of the main area of tourist interest and sight seeing attractions. The square is long and narrow and split lengthwise into a paved area lined with buildings on one side and a slightly elevated tree shaded corridor on the other.

Pontevedra old town.- As you leave Pontevedra’s alameda you cross a busy junction with the city’s old town directly in front of you and the ruin of "San Domingos" church to your right. Straight ahead however is the "Pazo do Concello", town hall and council offices, which has a granite and white rendered frontal facade.
The "Pazo do Concello" has a large double level, four columned entrance with symmetrically balanced wings either side and needs no introduction as Pontevedra’s town hall. It is far smaller than some of the other buildings lining the main square, but aesthetically more pleasing and some how less dour than the gargantuan structures you pass by in order to reach it. Beyond the "Pazo do Concello" the older district of Pontevedra dips down and you can wind your way along one of a couple of alternate routes. Just past the town hall, the recently restored long and narrow city theatre, "Teatro Principal" sits to the right. This theatre is built on the original site of St. Bartolomeu’s church which was destroyed in 1842. Unfortunately, I believe the theatre is now a casino.

On the lower side of the theatre is a narrow lane called the "rua Tetuan" and on this alley there is the "Nazarene chapel" also called the chapel of the "immured women". This chapel originates from the middle ages and the reason behind its name lies in the fact that its inhabitant nuns only left the chapel once – after they died. This building is small and demure and you can easily miss it. It does however have a coat of arms on its narrow facade.

In addition to the theatre and ancient chapel, this area of Pontevedra’s old quarter has several other buildings dating back many years including a fifteenth century house just across from the "Teatro Principal". It is also from this point that you can easily reach the first of Pontevedra’s famous squares, the Praza do Teucro, which you can find out about by clicking on this link, or selecting the Teucro button in the menu bar to the right.

Continuing a downward path and heading roughly towards the center of the old district, you reach a junction where five different lanes meet. Quite aptly this spot is known as the "Praza de Cinco Ruas" (square of five roads) and has at its center a highly detailed "cruceiro" (stone cross) which dates back to 1773. Galicia is littered with these crosses and they can be found in plazas, at cross roads and in places of commemoration, but this one is a particularly fine example. The junction of the five roads is also the site of a house formerly owned by a famous Galician writer called quot;Valle Inclan quot;.

Just a minute or two from the "Praza de Cinco Ruas" are a couple more sight seeing stops, although neither impressed us. The first is the "Casa do Baron de Casa Goda" which is now a parador (state run hotel). This building was once a large house (possibly two) and is quite attractive, but not worth going out of your way to see. Its dual merits lie in its neoclassical facade, which may date back as far as the sixteenth century, and the fact that it was once owned by the Count of "Maceda".

The second stop in this vicinity is the "Chapel of the Appearances", where sister "Lucia" lived. Unfortunately we were unable to determine her significance and unless you know and appreciate the religious importance of this chapel it is certainly not worth a visit.
The Prazo do Teucro.- This is an old and highly symbolic square in Pontevedra’s old quarter. It combines history, myth, provincial architecture and heraldic wealth in a single rectangular courtyard and was constructed during the eighteenth century.
The square is surrounded by many fine manor houses and is regarded as the most stately plaza in Pontevedra. Among the properties lining the "Teucro" square are those originally owned by some of the city’s leading families including the "Montenegro’s" and the "Marquis de Aranda". Most of the houses date back to the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries and are still in their original form representing what wealth and aristocracy stood for during that period.

Pontevedra’s history and connection with myth are also linked to this original part of the old town which legend claims was foundered by the Greek archer, and brother of Ajax, "Teucrus". Folk law has it that "Teucrus" traveled west after the "Trojan" wars and subsequently discovered Pontevedra.

In truth Pontevedra’s origins are more likely linked to a stop on an early Roman road and the name Pontevedra, meaning "old or ancient bridge", can be found in biblical texts dating back as far as the twelfth century.

Although popular myth may make some unrealistic claims about the "Prazo do Teucro" and its distant origins, its heraldic legacy is not in doubt. Pontevedra as a whole boasts over 200 coats of arms emblazoned into its walls and buildings and the "Prazo do Teucro" is the single most prolific demonstration of the city’s heraldry. Almost every building surrounding this small square has a coat of arms cut into, or projecting out from, its facade. The most notable of these detailed works of masonry is to be found on the "Gago and Montenegro" house on the northern side of the Square.

This coat of arms is in the Galician baroque style and dates back to around the seventeenth century. It is both large and three dimensionally detailed and without question the most impressive example we have seen in Galicia.

The square also has a further use when, during the fiestas, it plays host to night time concerts with a temporary stage erected in its eastern face. The square also slopes downwards, west to east, making it a natural auditorium for such events.

Capela da Virxe Peregrina (chapel of the pilgrims).- The "Capela da Virxe Peregrina" is a highly unusual building situated in the "Praza de Peregrina" (square of the pilgrim) which is part of the larger Ferreria square.

This chapel is unique and distinctive and attracts the attention of everyone who sees it. It was built in Pontevedra in 1778 and is positioned on the main pilgrim's route that leads to Santiago de Compostela from Galicia’s neighbour Portugal.

The chapel was built under the guidance of "Antonio de Souto" and "Bernado Jose de Mier" and is a fusion of Baroque detailing with some neo classical design elements. What makes the structure unique and eye catching is not however its intricate detailing (although there is plenty of that), but its shape and form in plan. The "Capela da Virxe Peregrina" has a ground plan in the shape of the "viera" (scallop shell), the traditional and long lasting symbol of pilgrims and the pilgrim’s route to Santiago de Compostela. It also has the shape of a cross embedded within the "viera" profile.

From the outside the chapel looks "stocky" but it is also strangely narrow and appears to be almost circular. It has a symmetrical appearance with several small windows climbing vertically up its facade and two small towers at it head. The portico is elaborate and has an equally decorative drinking fountain in front of it with a stair either side that takes visitors up to the entrance level, about four feet above the main square.

Inside the Pilgrims chapel there is a neo classical alter that dates from 1789 and was designed by "Melchor de Prado". Its main feature is an image of Pontevedra’s patron saint, the virgin pilgrim. The inside of the chapel is extremely small and none but pilgrims entered it when we were there.

The pilgrims chapel achieved national monument status in Spain in 1982 and the pilgrims who pass it arrive at Pontevedra from the south.

As a fixture on the Portuguese "Camino", a pilgrim traveling this route will only be deemed to succeed if he or she make a stop at this church.

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